Dark spots or pigmentation on the face can be due to many different causes. Depending on the cause, some conditions may be more likely than others to respond to topical medications and it is good to have a proper diagnosis of the spots or pigmentation in order to know what the best treatment options are for the pigmentation.
There are many OTC (over-the-counter products) in the market specifically formulated for skin lightening and it can be difficult to decide which is the best or most suitable for your skin.
Many of the OTC creams may contain botanical extracts. They can inhibit melanin synthesis. Melanin is the pigment that is produced by the melanocyte which resides in the skin. Some of the more common botanical ingredients include:
- arbutin 1%,
- flavonoids,
- ascorbic acid,
- niacinamide,
- glabridin (a liquorice extract),
- paper mulberry extract, hesperidin,
- polyphenols,
- soy extracts and
- aloesin.
There are no comparative studies to show which lightening ingredient works better than the other, so you may have to try them out to know which works best for your skin.
Other non-botanical ingredients which can be found in OTC products include azelaic acid and kojic acid. They are produced from yeast and fungus respectively. These products also inhibit tyrosine kinase. It is the enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis.
Cysteamine cream is another topical medication that can help to reduce pigmentation. It is free of steroids and hydroquinone and shows promising results for melasma treatment.
Mercury is a common ingredient found in many OTC products in the past. Mercury acts by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. However, it is now a prohibited ingredient in cosmetic products as they can cause serious side effects which include:
- worsening of skin pigmentation
- kidney and neural toxicity.
You should strictly avoid mercury-containing creams!
More potent topical lightening ingredients include hydroquinone. The combination of topical hydroquinone, tretinoin and steroids, also know as Kligman's formula, is one of the more potent topical lightening creams. However, this has to prescribed by a doctor as it needs to be used under proper medical supervision.
