How can I repair my skin barrier? Are there any essential ingredients in topical products that can help repair the skin barrier?

The skin barrier is important in protecting the skin from infection and irritants from the environment and is also important in prevention of water and heat loss from the body. Atopic eczema has been strongly linked to dry skin and poor barrier function. Hence, it is very important to maintain good barrier integrity.

The most important layer for skin barrier protection is the outer layer known as the stratum corneum. This is made up of cells (corneocytes) surrounded by a lipid layer. This lipid layer us made up of ceramides, cholesterol and squalene. When this layer is disrupted, the barrier function is compromised.

To maintain the skin barrier, it is important to use gentle soap free and ph balanced cleansers as normal soaps can be harsh on the skin. Frequent washing and contact with soaps and detergents will also wear away the skin barrier and should be minimized.

Moisturizers are very important in maintaining the skin hydration and barrier repair. My colleague has explained clearly about the dfferent types of moisturizers.

The newer moisurizers are lipid based and contain ingredients like ceramides. These moisturizers mimic more closely the skin’s natural moisturizers and are able to penetrate and repair the lipid layer defect of the stratum corneum, resulting in a longer lasting effect on the skin.

Important ingredients in skin products can broadly be broken down into one of the 3 groups:

1. Moisturizer
2. Sunscreen
3. Anti-aging topicals/antioxidants

1. Moisturizers

Ceramides fall under this category. It’s a type of lipid (fat) produced by your body to retain moisture in the skin, and is particularly useful if you have dry skin or eczema. Linoleic acid, in turn, is required for your body to produce ceramides.

Which moisturizer you should use really depends on your skin type. Generally speaking:

1. If your skin is oily, use a gel-like, non-oily moisturizer that will hydrate your skin.
2. If your skin is normal, a lotion-like moisturizer will suffice.
3. If your skin is dry, or you are prone to eczema, a heavier moisturiser, or one containing ceramide to restore the skin barrier will be useful. You should also use moisturisers at least twice a day.

2. Sunscreen

Sunscreen is the single most important product you should use for your skin, to prevent both aging as well as the breakdown of your skin barrier.

Again, the type of sunscreen you choose really depends on your skin type:

1. If your skin is oily or normal, choose a light lotion.
2. If your skin is dry, a rich cream is preferable.

Sunscreens that are creams and lotions already have a moisturizing effect as well.

3. Anti-aging topicals

Despite what all the adverts will have you believe, the only anti-aging ingredients in products that are proven to work are retinoids, as well as Vitamin C and Coenzyme Q-10 containing serums. The latter are antioxidants that help to prevent sun damage by neutralizing free radicals.

Cheers